For Acne Studios SS21, their Paris Fashion Week women’s wear collection focused on the power of shape, and how it evolves. The oversized was balanced with the flatteringly fitted, and the material itself—mostly sheer satin and shimmering organza—remained the star of the show.
As stated on Acne Studios’ Instagram, the collection “embodies a sense of liberation, experimentation and the transition of time.”
The show itself explored this transition of time by moving the camera through bare, white rooms as the models walked in and out of open doorways. The collection began the show with white, beige, and cream tones, with all the models standing in a circle like a clock and staring up at the “sun.” As the circle progressed, the viewer could notice the transition of color on the garments, from white to stormy grey, standing in a gradient.
Acne Studios’ tailoring is impeccable, managing to somehow give high fashion anaccessible feel while remaining elevated. Sheer pieces were layered on top of crochet bralettes, and the accessories – from earrings to beaded necklaces to heeled sandals – gave off a beachy, mermaid vibe.
Acne is, after all, a multidisciplinary luxury fashion house known for playing with shape while always maintaining a sense of ease within their contrasts. The silhouettes either hug the body completely, or hang from it in oversized shapes.
Although usually known for knits and woven-wear, Acne stuck with sheer materials for most of this collection. Oversized bags were also added to certain models’ outfits, noted as “ultimate earthiness” by Acne’s Instagram. Why were the straps so large? Well, as they themselves aptly put it: “heavy strap, heavy year.” Heard that.
The camera then entered the final room, which was entirely bathed in indigo light. Strobe spotlights sometimes followed the models, who had mostly returned to shimmering white outfits, but something had changed. The textures and fabrics now shined and glittered. Gradients of opal now colored certain skirt-top sets. A central look emerged, which was a beaded, fitted dress overlaid with a tied canvas vest.
In Acne Studios’ SS21 collection, the show’s passage of time is reflected through an elevation of material, color, and freedom to experiment, and this sense of growth is satisfying to experience.