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Maison Margiela SS21 takes us on a dark dance away from isolation

Maison Margiela SS21 takes us on a dark dance away from isolation

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For the second and final instalment of Maison Margiela’s ‘Sealed With A Love and Kiss’ (S.W.A.L.K) project, Galliano takes us through the processes and techniques used to create the sequel to the Haute Couture collection, launched earlier this summertime for Fall/Winter. Captured and directed by Nick Knight the film gives the viewer a greater insight into how Margiela transforms the artisanal collection into its ‘artistic’ and ‘industrialised’ form for Co-Ed Spring / Summer Ready-to-Wear.

Taking inspiration from the classic family musical ‘Singin’ in the Rain’ (1952) and the elusive underground, ‘real’ tango scene of a small poor town in Buenos Aires, Argentina. We are first painted the picture of a gentleman drenched in the moonlight, with “silver grey hair, in a suit fitted to within an inch of his life, the shoes – shiny, pointy, and the hair slicked back” as Galliano draws us into the scene the story begins. 

The narrative of the collection follows as passionate milonguero on his quest to marry his love…

“The bride. The guests at the wedding — the dowager, the twins, a procession. Strict tailoring, cut away to reveal point d’esprit. A white tuxedo. For another section, we looked at dance marathons of the ’30s. The evocation of that beautiful fatigue in the clothes; slashed trousers…”

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Galliano describes this collection as a “luxury genderless wardrobe” with each of the pieces interpreted in a fluid, genderless fashion. The fabrics are light and sheer in many areas, offering movement to the ruched sleeves and reconstructed blazers. With the suits, the silhouettes are boxy without losing their form. In order to accomplish the “wet and worn out” look, Galliano mentions that it was all in the “suiting, which looks as though the shoulders have been drenched with rain. The circular cutting captured the look of wet fabric.

All in all, John Galliano has created a collection that utilizes movement and water to create something that is truly awe-inspiring. When watching the film, you are able to learn a little bit about what it took to create these pieces, the source of his inspiration, and the thought process behind all of it. It’s not just 2-dimensional garments walking down the runway — it’s an experience.

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